Having ridden the Erie Canal Trail from Buffalo to Syracuse in August, we decided that September would be a good time to finish the journey from Syracuse to Albany. Preparation was easier this time as we had a better idea of what the trail was like and what to pack.
Day 1: We decided to take Amtrak with our bikes from Albany to Syracuse and leave our car at the trail station. I was nervous about taking our bikes on Amtrak - How would we know where to put them? Would we have enough time to get all the panniers off and get the bikes on? Would they be in different cars? So, as most things do, it all worked out OK. The Amtrak staff was very helpful, there was plenty of time to load things on board. There were only 2 bike cars with room for 1 bike in each car. We had to remove the front wheel from the bike and hang it up by the rear wheel. (Make sure you have reservations for your bikes - they have very limited space.)
Finding the bike trail from the train station wasn’t too onerous, however the journey through Syracuse was not fun. There is a dedicated bike path along the side of the road but it crosses back and forth across the road many times, and watching for cars and hearing the traffic noise was not great. Once out of Syracuse the path becomes much nicer. We only rode about 15 miles and camped at Green Lakes State Park for our first night, where they are very accommodating to bicyclists. Any bicyclist can come in with no reservation, the cost is nominal, showers are free, and the park is lovely. We had forgotten our insect repellent, so were happy to see that it was for sale as we checked in - along with 2 salty bags of chips. (15 miles)
Day 2: The next section of trail runs alongside the original Erie canal and is a straight, stone-dust path right next to the canal. It runs through picturesque small towns and has many interesting historical signs along the path which tell about life on the canal boats, building of the canal, and much more. We weren’t looking to get as far as fast as we could, so stopping and reading the signs was very enjoyable and enlightening for us. We saw a beaver, some herons, and a crane. Dabrims….
We paused at Lock 21 to watch a boat go through the lock - it was going to the west so the water had to be let out of the lock to lower the boat to go on its way down the canal. So cool to watch!
That night we stayed outside of Utica at Lock 20 which is a New York State Canal Corporation Cycler-Hiker-Boater campsite. They offer 18 of these types of sites along the Canalway Trail and waterways. These campsites are designated as “primitive” with a place for 4 tents, usually with picnic table, and a Porta-john. Campers have to bring their own potable water, cooking supplies, etc. There were day visitors there fishing and picnicking, but only one other camper. This gentleman had a gravel bike with minimum baggage and was doing 90 miles a day - from Buffalo to NYC! We woke up to deep fog and everything soggy and decided to ride awhile to get a good breakfast. In the diner Billy enjoyed this clock which runs backwards! (45 miles)
Day 3: We rolled into Little Falls about 1:00 pm and decided to take a half-day off and stay in a hotel. After a couple of days of dust, sweat, sunscreen, and insect repellent we appreciated a shower! We walked down to Lock 17 which has the largest elevation change on the Erie Canal - 42 feet! The lock master was letting water out of the lock in preparation for a boat that was coming later - wow, did that water rush out in a torrent! You don’t want to be downstream in a boat when this much water comes out. (30 miles)
Day 4: The next section of trail was lovely trail, some dust, some paved, some on road. We stopped briefly at Sprakers Church where they set out snacks and water for bikers. We paused at a beautiful lock at Fort Plain for a snack break. Our camp for the night was at Lock 9 where the canal coincides with the Mohawk River - it was gorgeous! Aside from a few fishermen who left at sunset we had the place to ourselves, the morning sunrise over the river was stunning and even the mosquitos cooperated and stayed away. (47 miles)
Day 5: Our last day brought us through some nice sections of trail, however there are other sections that run very close to the freeway and there is a lot of road noise. This whole day was on good paved trails and that made the riding easier. Coming into Albany it was tricky to find the way over the busy bridge and into Rensselaer where our car was parked. (30 miles)
It's always fun to finish a journey, look back and say “Wow, we really did that!” Now home to rest the legs and recover for a couple of days!!
